Stuart 10V cylinder head

It's taken a long time to pluck up the courage to tackle this, but this afternoon I faced both ends of the cylinder head after mounting it in a 4 jaw chuck.

These are the dimensions to work to.

Note the gippo method of mounting the 4 jaw...

Progressive drilling of the bore, which needs to be 19mm. 1st drill was a 15mm which fitted the cast hole. This is a 16mm 2MT in the tailstock.

Next size available is 18mm 2MT, which struggled a bit, often catching and spinning but taking it slowly worked out.

1st attempt at boring, using my small boring head, which didn't have the depth or clearance.

Finally used the large boring head mounted on 2MT base. This had the clearance and depth, but I couldn't get a very good finish - there's no power feed on the tailstock.

The hole diameter is currently less than 19mm but greater than 18mm, which gives me room to try and lap the bore somehow. Fortunately I can make the piston to fit.

Still a lot of machining to be done, and will update when it happens.

Stuart 10V flywheel

It's been machined for quite a while now. Time to do some more.

15 degree angle block and tool makers vice used to align the flywheel. Centering the vice under the chuck is easy if you use the V groove in the moving chuck jaw. The fly wheel aligns itself into the gap in the bed of the tool makers vice, Problem is getting close to the hub with the rim of the fly wheel interfering with the drill chuck.

Set up to drill tapping hole for 3mm set screw. It's not possible to centre drill, unless you have a very long centre drill which sort of defeats the purpose.

Another view. Aesthetic recommendation is to align hole with a spoke.

Tapped after facing similar access problem with tap handle. Eventually use a pin chuck arrangement. Fortunately cast iron is really easy to tap. Using a stainless Allen head bolt instead of grub screw - I don't have a small enough Allen key to fit the 3mm grub screws... Oops. Will shorten it at a later stage.

Painted with deep green "Hammerite".